Rice Ridge Fire of 2017

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Turning onto our long gravel driveway looking towards the Horseshoe Hills last week

We had a cold, wet May which meant the grass grew tall.

Then we had a hot, dry June which meant we were in for it this summer.

Lightning struck several dry places in the western part of the state on July 24th and ever since then the Rice Ridge fire has burned and taken on a life form of its own outside our community of Seeley Lake.

 

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View from the golf course three weeks ago when things got intense.

Initially it wasn’t a big concern and for the two weeks I was chilling out in a cool Canadian ice rink nobody had much to say about this fire. The night we drove west, though, back from North Dakota, and we saw the plume rising and growing from behind our Horseshoe Hills mountain range, everything changed.

The photo above was taken the first day we were back and whacking at balls on the local golf course.

The front nine provides an excellent view of the entire fire and the mountains it has marched across immediately behind our town. It also gave us an alarming perspective as to how quickly things changed during a simple round of golf.

 

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The next day. When people were evacuating and things got real.

It became clear that the fire was out of control and much of our town was put on pre-evacuation. Several friends who live by the airport (at the far right of the angry smoke seen above) just left. They packed up their kids, pets, important papers, and photo albums and they got out of town.

The golf course closed for a day due to the pre-evacuations as well as the hazardous air quality which was worsened by the fact we had another large, pre-evacuation-causing fire burning almost as quickly to the west of town.

Alistair and I have keys to the cart barn, where we keep Norman, so we still went out to play. We saw a couple of other club members as well and we all watched the sky darken and the smoke plumes change during another simple round of golf.

 

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Yayyyy!

Traffic was a steady stream as people drove south down highway 83 past the golf course that afternoon and while our farm wasn’t immediately threatened we both felt a sadness at the lack of control one has during this type of situation.

And finally, as we stood on the long fairway of the ninth hole, the air support that was so badly needed and likely saved much of our community and our airport arrived over our heads.

Planes to spot, drop water and drop retardant buzzed overhead. Single and twin rotor helicopters whacka-whacka-ed in the skies. The Canadian super-scoopers who dove into Seeley Lake one behind the other in a choreographed routine that was witnessed by hundreds stayed for a few days and flew for hours on end to pour water on this angry beast. And a famous orange converted DC10 flew out of Helena with bright red fire retardant to dump where it could.

 

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Big Orange above the golf course.

Big Orange flies over our farm when he’s called to action so I have been able to watch him from our front yard as well as from the front nine. He lumbers along and takes well over an hour when he has to fly back to refuel and refill but its a thing of beauty to watch.

He flies behind a little guy who puffs out what looks like smoke where Big Orange is supposed to dump. The two planes fly up and down the hillside and into canyons and gullies and the red powder falls when and where its supposed to, all in an effort to block the spread of the monstrous fire.

 

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view from the driving range last week

Despite the hundreds of people who came to work this fire and the amazing work of air support the Rice Ridge fire of 2017 continued to spread. The driving range has become a viewpoint for many in town and it gives a great perspective of how much land has been consumed.

The fire today has burned over 15,000 acres, which is nothing compared to other fires within the state this year or over the course of history but those acres have pretty much been immediately around our town.

The mountaintop on the very right in the above photo has the Morrell Outlook station on top, which is the same mountain and outlook seen from our back yard, on the other side.

 

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Morrell Outlook on the left peak with smoke billowing around from the Seeley Lake side on the left and coming over the top a couple of days ago.

And while its comforting to know that’s a few miles away, and its comforting to see the bright red flame retardant covering the ground up there, all along the ridge top, its still kind of eerie knowing you have a big assed fire that close to home.

Its also somewhat comforting knowing that they are using our meadow to stage helicopter pickups for both water and retardant but even that is a little freaky, too.

Freaky but super cool at the same time, if that’s possible.

 

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The first time the big Chinook buzzed in for water last week!

My neighbors and I have had front row seats to a free air show and I am amazed at how much of an organized production its been.

 

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Right. Over. My. Head.

The Chinook and the single rotor Sykorski fly both water and retardant to the fire. Last Wednesday I got to watch them fly back and forth all morning as they came and went every 10 minutes or so.

 

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View from our front yard 4 days ago.

I waved every single time I watched them (which was several) because I want the pilots to know I appreciate them. Even if they can’t see me I want to be doing any little thing I can to make someone who is working so hard to save a town they don’t live in smile.

 

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And another run.

The fire has been only 10% contained since crews really began to attack it. The terrain is, in places, inaccessible and thanks to the high winds we had the past 2 days even back-burning has been impossible (the old, ‘fight fire with fire’ saying has its origins in truth.)

We have a road behind us in the Clearwater Lakes drainage that connects to Seeley Lake around by the airport. We snowmobile that road in the winter and pause by the lakes and another road that branches off and up to the Morrell Outlook for photos.

 

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Me, on that road by frozen Clearwater Lakes this spring.

That road has apparently been widened drastically by work crews and is a focal point for stopping this beast of a fire. Many fire workers and much equipment is up there right now digging tremendous trenches and removing dead, fallen trees that cover the ground and would act as fuel to push the fire towards our meadow.

I know that because they were all suddenly in our meadow on Friday evening as my friend who just arrived from Canada for the night and I were driving into town for supper and suddenly tankers, trucks, machinery, huge rigs and several dozen men in yellow shirts and green pants were all over the place.

They were there because winds had blown the fire up and they had no idea where it was coming from or going and they figured they only had one chance to get out of the drainage if it was going towards them.

 

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Friday afternoon… as the fire blew up behind us

It had looked frightening from town that morning on the golf course and even worse when I got home that afternoon.

Granted, it was mostly moving East, which is the goal because the Bob Marshall Wilderness is that way and that’s the only thing that way.

No towns.

No people.

 

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Friday afternoon behind our ranch.

When I took the dogs up the driveway for a better view I wasn’t surprised that a few friends had messaged me asking if I needed help getting out or a place for the pets and I to get to.

I knew my friend was visiting and could help evacuate and that most everything that is important is lined up in our foyer in boxes in case I have to make a move.

And The Dragon is hooked up to the Road Warrior and there are irreplaceable items already inside and the cat crates are by the door in the garage and sealed bags of dog and cat food are also loaded inside the rig along with leashes, dishes, my skates and a pink bag of our important documents.

 

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Ready to go if needed!

I doubt it will come to that even though I watched from our kitchen sunroom last night as the outlook became engulfed in smoke and wasn’t visible from this side well until darkness.

It was, as it turned out, a controlled back-burn that would have been nice to know about but folks on the town side of the mountain shared pictures of our beloved outlook still there.

 

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Somewhat alarming view of the Morrell Outlook from our back deck last night surrounded by flames and smoke.

The flames glowed bright as the dogs and I snuggled up under the covers and the outlook is there this morning.

I’m not at all complacent about things. I am more than ready. Its easier this year with 2 portable dogs who travel well and 3 cats I can generally lay my hands on at any time. Sure, Jockey is outside but he sticks close to the house or me if I’m outside and he usually comes when he’s called. He’s also locked in the barn every evening so if we had to move quickly I would be able to make sure he would be with me.

Of course Alistair is in North Dakota right now but he can get here if he has to. Sure, it takes a full day but one of his partners is willing to cover for him if needed.

 

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A couple of days ago in the meadow.

I doubt its going to get to that because the winds aren’t predicted to be as bad as the last few days and because the experts have been working hard to make sure this fire moves itself into the Wilderness complex.

People in town are still on pre-evacuation notice and air quality still sucks but we’re all trying to stay positive. The lake itself has re-opened for recreation so that’s a bonus.

I try to focus on things I can control even though I know nobody is out of the woods. And even though I can’t forget the fact a young firefighter lost his life on this particular fire early on I know these crews know exactly what they are getting into when they sign up for this job. And I appreciate and respect that knowledge and the risks these men and women take while they work hard to save our community.

 

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Local golf course resident.

And I’ll take pictures of the little things that make me smile and give me pleasant pause like the young fawn resting in the cool grass along the creek on the 12th hole at the golf course.

Know that we’re all staying strong, we’ve got each others backs up here and everyone is communicating as much as they can. UB, Cleo, Sport, Bebe, Jockey and I, my passport, our diplomas, marriage license and naturalization certificates will be fine. Our photo albums are boxed.

Everything else is just stuff.

 

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Last week on the 9th tee box. 

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Mr. Jockey helping me wave at and take pictures of the helicopters!

 

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Coming in to land in our meadow!

 

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Friday’s view of Mother Nature’s strength. Rice Ridge fire, 2017.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summertime, Montana-style

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Beautiful Montana

There is no denying that we live in one of the most beautiful, incredibly scenic parts of the world.

Big sky.

Rocky Mountains.

Crystal blue rushing waters that beckon to fly-fishermen and women everywhere with their plump, shiny trout.

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Enjoying some ah-time on Upsata Lake

Or tranquil, peaceful sapphire lakes that lull you into a coma-like state of relaxation while your husband tries, (again) to catch supper.

Montana is elk, bison, antelope and bears.

It is poetry, songs, stories and deep thoughts.

And we are so lucky to have found our tucked-away piece of Paradise in the middle of nowhere.

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Close to home, late last summer

But the country that has inspired former Presidents and adventurers doesn’t give up her splendor that easily.

There are certain responsibilities and risks that go along with enjoying summertime in Montana.

Like wildfires.

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Not what I wanted to see when walking the dogs Friday evening.

A wicked electrical storm had moved through the area bringing bolts of lightning and gusts of wind.

That’s a bad combination after a dry spring and summer in timber country.

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Aerial view of the same fire complex yesterday that is 6 miles from town. (Not my photo.)

We had our first town meeting on these fires and although they look frightening, other than the smoke-filled skies, they shouldn’t pose much of a threat.

They are 3 separate fires burning in the same general area.

A few roads and trails are closed but for now we should be alright.

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From our meadow a couple of years ago.

Until the next storm and the next lightning strike.

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From a couple of summers ago; fire camp was along our back driveway for this fire.

We all plan ahead and we all fall into a routine of watching every nearby mountain closely for plumes of smoke, especially after a storm.

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Storm moving in two nights ago on the farm.

We bring up all of the pet crates from the basement and keep them by the ferrets and in the garage so we can put our hands on them in a moment’s notice.

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No joke. Just took this picture.

We call our friends who live across the valley from us because the billowing smoke rising from their neck of the woods wasn’t there a few hours prior.

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Fire across the meadow last week just outside of Ovando. All evacuees are back home and things are good. Thank-you, fire crews!

We pay attention to weather reports and we make sure the horse trailer is hooked up to the truck just in case we have to move in a hurry.

And we breathe the smoky air and try not to exercise much in it and we watch the weather reports and we curse the wind and long for rain and make sure the InciWeb site is listed as a Favorite.

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Dipping into nearby Clearwater Lakes a couple of years ago.

There are often little reminders to be aware because it isn’t always lightning that creates the problem.

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Last summer, along our driveway- brush fire out of control.

When I saw the flashing lights and smoke up the driveway last year it was a humble reminder that it could just have easily been us whose brush fire got out of control.

There is no time to plan when you’re talking about forest fires- the planning has to be done ahead of time.

Because you aren’t going to be able to stop Mother Nature if she wants to hurl another storm your direction. And the fires only take off and get out of control because the beautiful treed forests we love to hike in and explore are on gorgeous Montana steep slopes and peaks, making them a challenge to get to if needed.

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Storm rapidly moving in the other night.

Fires aren’t the only hazard we have to respect and watch out for this time of year in this enormous state.

Bordering US Forest Service land brings some fascinating neighbors.

Like Grizzly Bears!

We had the amazing opportunity to help Fish & Wildlife workers track a female Grizzly whose collar had stopped moving.

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Bob and Alistair tracking Fen.

We used our trusty Ranger, “Steve” to get into the woods behind our house and then set out on foot with Bob and Mike to find Fen.

Fen is an important sow who FWP have studied for 8 years.

She’s had several cubs in that time and has never been a Nuisance Bear- the information they gather from her is purely for science.

You can imagine how relieved we all were to find out why the collar had stopped moving.

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Thankfully, it was just the collar that wasn’t moving anymore.

Bob and Mike used their tracking devices and we hiked through thick brush, over and under fences, through creeks and up and down slopes.

Bob told us about Fen and how he really hoped she had merely slipped the collar as opposed to the alternative.

None of us wanted to find Fen.

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The creek where the collar was found, discussing the possibilities. Maybe Fen took a bath and rubbed up against the tree just off to my right.

We are thankful that it doesn’t appear she was shot because the $5000 collar was intact.

So we hope Fen is out there living the life of a Montana Grizzly Bear, doing Grizzly Bear things and maybe leading us to her again in the future so we can re-collar her and learn some more.

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Fen’s collar… these things are pretty skookum!

It wasn’t her first slipped collar, Bob told us, but it was her most expensive one.

Summers around this place can be pretty amazing.

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Me, Mike and Alistair after a successful tracking expedition!

With ranching in Montana comes yet another summertime responsibility.

When you have livestock and animals who depend on you, even if they are more pets than anything, you have to be prepared to do the right thing.

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APHA Dash With Gusto, our ranch stallion

We plan for forest fires and we also plan for the winter.

If you have aging animals who won’t survive the winter you have to do something about it when you can.

Especially when they are over 1000 lbs.

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Dash a couple of winters ago

It sadly fits right in with the year of attrition that’s been going on around these parts.

The good thing, if there is one, is that I’m a veterinarian and can do these things right at home.

The bad thing, is that I’m a veterinarian who is their Mummy and its just a shitty situation, even though it was absolutely, without a shadow of a doubt, the right thing to do.

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Dash, our noble stallion, a couple of winters ago

One of the kindest, sweetest stallions I have ever known needed us to step in.

We have raised horses and hay for many years and have the tools and equipment and land to handle these things.

The details and specifics were taken care of.

The rocky soil was dug with the backhoe.

The meds were drawn up.

We laid Dash with sweet little Cooper-cat last Sunday.

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Handsome Dash, flirting with Maggie 2 summers ago

Its summer in Montana. Life on the farm. Fyfe Life.

Whatever you want to call it you still have to get through it however you can, breathing the smoky air when its there, carrying the bear spray on every hike and maybe with a tear or two in your eye.

My eyes are sore right now from the memory and the smoke outside.

And yet I love it here.

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Dash in a late snowstorm last year

I love the distinct seasons and the challenges each one brings.

Everything I do and have done helps me face the next day or the next challenge, whether its a smoke plume or a pink fluid in a couple of large syringes.

Montana is hard work, sweat, humility and fear.

It is strength. Courage. Determination.Compassion.

And love.

If you have never been to Montana you should come visit.

Maybe call ahead first, though.

We might be out tracking Grizzly Bears.

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Bear trackers!

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A few winters ago, Dash peeking through the fence.

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Sticking close by when I went to dig a hole in his frozen creek.

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A sunny day behaving as a sofa, goofing around with Alistair. Dash was a sweetheart and we will always remember him with love and a smile.

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A piece of our beautiful big boy. xo